Posts from the ‘Mischief Managed’ Category

Nearly perfect

… except for the cold …

Best advice we got for making the run from Georgetown to Charleston was to leave just after the start of the ebb tide, and stop at McClellanville (Leland’s Marina) – about a 30 mile trip. Ordinarily that would take about 6hrs. With the help of the outgoing tide, we made it in 4 ½ .

Leland’s turned out to be a very protected and recently updated facility.

Some have described it as rustic, but we found newly renovated floating docks and very friendly and helpful staff. Leland’s is a very short distance up a small creek from the ICW route, and the home port of a large fleet of shrimp boats. That meant parking in close proximity, and access to fresh shrimp at bargain prices.

The weather forecast called for very cold and high winds, so we settled here to wait for it to pass.  Another cruiser in a Catalina 36 came in, making for a new friend and some good company to share happy hour treats.

McClellanville, SC is a small, very picturesque southern town with beautiful homes and landscaped with numerous Live Oaks, some that have been estimated to be over 1,000 years old. I was also interested to see the historic Episcopal church – given both my parents were clergy, though never served here.

After waiting out the worst of the cold, we once again, bet on the right time for departure – despite the frost on the canvass – and headed out at 7 am with three other boats for the run to Charleston. No brag – but we rode a helpful tidal current all the way at 6-8mph, again making for a shortened trip, and arrived in Charleston mid-day. To add to a great day, we connected with sailing friends and have been making plans to ‘buddy boat’ from here to Savannah. The Charleston Maritime Center is a great facility with modern floating docks, easy access to shopping, and offers free laundry machines among all the standard marina benefits.

.. and we got to watch one of the Carnival Cruises head out …

While making a successful trip to Harry-Teeter’s to re-provision, Carl (crew) made his arrangements for a car to get home, and I worked on a float plan with my friends on Lasata for the next few days to Savannah. This will be the first solo run of the trip that I thought could be single-handing all the way. Having the extra hands, and the company, has been a plus, but looking forward to the next few ‘quiet’ days in the company of like-minded friends on their boat.

As much as sailing is enjoyed in company with other sailors, there is something very special about solo time. It encourages introspection, and challenges and hones your skills – at whatever level you may be. The freedom and independence it offers can be intoxicating, especially at anchor on a clear night far away from ground light when the sky turns black and stars, usually hidden fully populate the black space.

Bridges and Wind

Friday, November 8, 2013 – We owe a special thanks to the bridge tenders in North Carolina. In each of three cases of low clearance swing bridges we were a bit behind schedule and would have had to stand by for a half to a full hour to wait for the next opening. The friendly tenders gave us that few extra minutes we needed to make the scheduled opening, and did so cheerfully!

The several days from Oriental to our current location at the Carolina Beach State Park Marina provided pleasant scenery along the coastal dunes. We saw our first sailboat aground (Spooner Creek) – well off the waterway, and two others (Trawlers) at the entrance to Top Sail Sound where we anchored.  All three clearly missed the well-marked channel.

The adjacent waters are shallow… we saw this fellow walking his skiff across one of the flats.

We stopped briefly at Wrightsville Marina for fuel and a pump out. We made good time to the top of Cape Fear river, though side currents pushed us at each inlet we passed, and the current direction changed, so first we’re making 6-7mph then down to 4-5. Makes it hard to estimated arrival times.

Stuck. Good thing the Carolina Beach Park Marina is inexpensive and very nice – and well protected. We stopped here in order to time the run down the Cape Fear River which often has strong tidal currents and rough conditions. Winds we’re picking up and we missed the outgoing tide. Good thing.

We arrived here Wednesday afternoon after a pleasant day. Overnight the winds increased to 15-20 with gusts to 30 – and have stayed there till today (Friday). Forecast may let us out of here tomorrow with diminished winds. Meanwhile, we walked the three mile round trip to the grocery store, and did a load of laundry here at the marina.

We’re luckier than some. We monitored one Coast Guard rescue on the VHF of a swamped sailboat off the NC coast, and read reports today about four others rescues. Winds near or above gale force, especially off the coast, have taken their toll. My friend, Mark Doyle (author of the Waterway guides), is here at the marina with us. He just called to say that folks in Southport advised us to stay put. Conditions at the mouth of the Cape Fear are distinctly unpleasant. So, another day to relax and do minor chores.

Tomorrow is another day, and the forecast promises lighter winds and a safer time to make our next run to a protected anchorage just beyond Southport.

Southbound – Dismal days

It has been an eventful few days beginning with our departure from Hampton Roads. First stop was at Hospital point – the popular staging point for the AICW. Two routes are available that join in the Albemarle Sound about mile 80. The first is the Virginia Cut that runs easterly with one lock and several bridge openings. The second, a senic tour, is through the Dismal Swamp. We chose the latter…..thus the title, in part, of this post.

From Hospital Point, we followed the well marked ICW route, raced to make the Gilmerton lift bridge that is timed for the north lock on the Dismal Swamp route.

Gilmerton lift bridge, mile 5.8

Entrance to the Dismal Swamp route at mile 8.8.

Deep Creek (North) lock on the Dismal Swamp Route, mile 10.6.
Then on to  the Visitors Center where we joined several other boats, rafted two deep on the free bulkhead. It was a pleasant evening with cool but dry weather.

Next morning (October 30) we made an early start and followed the Dismal Swamp channel dodging patches of duck weed that are known to foul engine heat exchangers.  Then through the south lock , mile 33.2.

It was a pleasant and beautiful trip that was first a straight canal, then wandered though cyprus swamp.

As we came out near civilization at Elizabeth City we encountered several boats of waterfowl hunters, and a friendly sounding shotgun at one point.

We chose to bypass Elizabith City, though several new friends stopped there. Rather we continued down the Pasquotank River to an anchorage just north of the Albemarle Sound. Weather forcasts (more later) encouraged an early morning trip across the Sound to take advantage of light winds and quiet waters – a good decision.

So, the eventful day started with a smooth ride across the Sound in flat water and almost no wind – it was beautiful and peaceful.

We entered the Alligator River, followed the new marks around the shoals and pulled into the Marina just short of the swing bridge. We needed fuel – and an ice cream sandwich!

After a long wait at the bridge, it opened and five boats, 4 sail and a trawler, made it through to run up the Alligator River. This is where luck failed us, and the forecasters were wrong. Instead of light south winds we got 10-20 building through the afternoon, along with 2-3 foot chop from the long 10 mile fetch down the river. When we turned the corner at the end, the squalls hit in rapid succession – 15-27kt winds just as we were looking for a safe, sheltered anchorage for the night.

As I wrote this the squalls continued to march through. We have ample ground tackle down in seven feet of water with no one behind us in case the anchore drags…….

A glass of wine and a peaceful evening made all right with the world.

The run from the Aligator river anchorage to use to Belhaven (mile 135) and a pleasant nigt at the Belhaven Waterway Marine – and Tiki Bar

The motor/sail from Belhaven to Oriental was a great ride. Finally with wind NOT on the nose we made good time at 6-7kts most of the way with only the head sail flying. Oriental is a sailor’s town, and deserves more than our brief stay. But we found the shrimp fleet and the local dragon, got hot showers and laundry done.

From Oriental, the plan was a shorter sail (downwind!) to Beaufort, but we made such good time we went on the Swansboro – a 48 mile day!

That brings us to today (November 4, and crew Carl’s birthday). To catch up, we are taking a down day at Swansboro, NC – Dudley’s Marina with electric, water, showers and wifi – all for $0.75/ft. Almost cheaper than a days diesel use. The sun is shining, though the temps are still pretty chilly.

Tomorrow we’ll head further south, and the forecast promises warmer…….

Southbound – Willie had it right (almost)

Can’t you just hear his gravely voice….

“On the road again –
Just can’t wait to get on the road again.
The life I love is (sailing) with my friends
And I can’t wait to get on the road again.
On the road again
Goin’ places that I’ve never been.

Sunday, 10/27 – Carl had arrived Friday evening to crew for a time, and we said good bye to Deltaville Marina  yesterday AM having completed all the repairs.  The forecast looked promising for the run down to Hampton Roads, with sunshine and moderate NW winds. Glad to be moving south as the first real signs of cold weather arrived – 42F this morning.

Seems once again the weather man was mistaken – the first 20nm were on flat water with light SW breeze. The second 20nm was into 16-24kts directly on the nose, and 2-4ft waves. Add an adverse tide, and not a recipe for a pleasant sail! The conditions added an hour and a half to the trip but we arrived off shore at Hampton River still in good time.

An inbound cargo ship was timed to share the narrower entrance with us, so prudence (we listen to her, usually) suggested we delay a bit and fall in behind. Sorry, no pix, it was a busy time ….

While conditions were still very choppy, and there was no letup in the wind, we made it into Hampton Roads harbor and picked up a slip at the Hampton Public Pier – nice folks, and familiar as I’d stayed there a couple times before. We’ll be here for a day or two to visit with family. Had dinner with Abby and Jim, then a movie – “Captain Phillips” – hopefully NOT preparation for this cruise. (Don’t you wonder why they don’t arm those commercial vessels to ward off pirates?)

Also, found ‘Strider’ – my friend Roger’s boat – berthed here, and expect to see him on Monday. A local FB friend and sailor may also stop by today.  One of the best parts of cruising is finding like-minded, fellow cruisers along the way. It is a close and friendly community.

Plan to relocate to Hospital Point, the ‘zero’ mile post, Monday afternoon in preparation for heading down the ICW………… Spot tracker will be on….. more later.

Southbound – Day 6

While still waiting for word on repairs, the upside was a visit today from daughter Abby (and furry friend Tessa) who lives nearby in Yorktown. And, I got a ride to the grocery and hardware store!

The day began with dark clouds and a forecast of possible showers and lower temps, but still pretty mild. By lunchtime the sun was out and warmer.

I enjoyed an informal guitar concert last evening by one of the skippers, and sing-along with a few folks from other boats. The marina provides a screened room with several grills, tables and chairs for use by any of the registered boaters making for a pleasant gathering spot – and a good ‘concert hall’.

Boat chores continue, and I’m using the time to continue to do passage planning. Word just came that promises progress on the alternator repairs, and I picked up a new regulator.  MAYBE an earlier departure………?

Southbound – learning to be still

Patience – they say is, “Seldom found in women, never found in man.” This forced stop is certainly a test.

Deltaville Marina has so far lived up to its fine reputation as a sailor-friendly place – complete and clean facilities. With an uncertain time line for the alternator repair, I’m settled in a slip with several nice neighbors. Backing in was made much simpler when those neighbors showed up on the dock to help with lines. The weather has been clear and mostly sunny. However, the forecast is suggesting lower temps are just around the corner, and the urge to get south is increasing as patience with waiting begins to fade.

Now in day 4 – the tech came this morning to remove the alternator/regulator to send out for repairs. The hope is that it will be back and installed by Friday.

Meanwhile, I’m working my way through the library in the sailors lounge – three good mysteries in that many days, with more days to go. Also taking the time to do an assortment of small boat chores.

Just when I begin to feel pressure to move and patience evaporates, I wake up to this ……..

and smile and slow down 🙂

Southbound – a pause

After making good time coming down the Bay to Ingram Bay south of the Potomac, we needed to make a stop to assess a battery charging issue in Deltaville. The run from Ingram Bay to Deltaville, that was supposed to be a quick 22nm, became a hard slog directly into a 15-20kt wind and 3-4ft seas. We arrived and dropped anchor in Jackson Creek after re-fueling and off-loading crew’s gear, then made a visit to the Boatyard office to arrange for a service tech to look at the problem. Next morning, now Friday, when I was planning to sail to Hampton, I moved the boat to the Boatyard dock and met with the service  tech – outcome is a new alternator, so I’m here maybe till early next week to complete that work.

To make lemonade out of lemons – got a hot shower, did my laundry, and am typing this in a very comfortable boater’s lounge – all for the small sum of $11. Ursula, who crewed from Annapolis, has her boat here for repairs, and provides shore-side support -THANKS!

The sun is shining, Valinor is safely docked and all’s good. The nice thing about this adventure is the almost total lack of schedule.

All in all not a bad outcome 🙂

Southbound – leaving

Four days of working at the Annapolis Sailboat Show for Passport Yachts was fun. Met some friends, put a little money in the travel kitty, and got to spend quality time on beautiful boats!

Now begins the adventure – leaving the comfortable and familiar behind, and heading into places less known (or not at all) and events unpredictable. With it comes unease, apprehension and the excitement of new challenges. It’s the latter that drives us forward and feeds the soul.  So it is with this particular adventure, so long in the planning and so suddenly here. Off we go with a smile and offerings to whatever deities that might be listening for safe travels.

Valinor is ready to go, and I think I am as well…….. All the gear, extra fuel and water on board. Engine servicing is done, and dock box is empty.

Weather forecast for the run down Bay to Hampton, with a stop to visit friends in Deltaville, looks good. It only remains to say some ‘goodbyes’ and retrieve dock lines. Leaving the slip I’ve called home for about 8 years is a bit sad, especially with such good neighbors. But hope to find a nearby spot when I return in the Spring.

Stay tuned for occasional reports from along the way.

Chasing Summer – II

Going south – Just two words describing a simple action, nothing magical.

Sitting here on the boat, a light steady rain falls on the canvass following a couple impressive storms. A few remnant flashes of lightning signaled the end. I have time to consider – reconsider.

I’ve thought and planned to take Valinor south for the winter for at least two years.  It was at the outset, the challenge – a stretch for me as a sailor. I’ve circled the DelMarVa twice, once in each direction, and explored much of the Chesapeake, both with friends and solo. Going around the world is a stretch too far this late in my life, but “going south”? That’s just a small technical challenge, nothing magical, just timing all the bridge openings and staying off the shoals – and burning a lot of diesel.

Then I mentioned it to a slip neighbor. “Wow, you’ll love it!” followed by stories of his previous trips, and good advice from his experiences.  This is the common, consistent response from every one I’ve talked to who has made the trip. “How far are you going?”  Key West and the Abacos. “Wow, I never made it to Key West, we always headed for the Bahamas from Miami”  Plan to go see the Dry Tortugas too. “Man, wish I could go with you.”  And the conversation repeats in various iterations with others who have made the trip. So maybe there is something magical after all.

As an avian biologist, I understand the drive that moves flocks of birds south every Fall. But what is it that drives sailors to undertake what is largely a motoring process? Certainly there’s good reason to move a boat, and its occupants, into warmer waters as winter approaches. But it seems to be something more than simple biology or thermodynamics. Once the decision is made and shared with others, it becomes clear that there is a community of like-minded sailors. They share a love of the water and adventure. They welcome newcomers into the inner circle, and reach out to share their experiences. There is a sense of family in this group of snow birds.

So it is that this year Valinor will retrieve her dock lines, point her bow south and join this group on the annual cruise. The trip will be made more easily and safely because of all the good counsel and guidance offered freely from those who have gone before. I have no doubt I’ll make new friends, accumulate experiences along the way and have good stories to share on return.

In reconsidering, Yes, I believe there is something magical about ‘going south’, and I hope to experience that magic and be able to share it with others who have yet to make the trip.

Southbound – a beginning

The Seven Seas Cruising Association sponsors gatherings for southbound cruisers each year at Camp Letts in the Rhode River (Chesapeake Bay). The GAM, brings together cruisers who are headed down the Intracoastal Waterway to share experiences of those who’ve made the trip – some more than a dozen times. Presentations by experts on planning, weather and other skills fill out the program..

Being my first trip, this is an opportunity to learn from those who’ve gone before, and make new cruising friends who I will likely meet again along the way.  As I sit at anchor and watch the arrivals, we are already nearly 50 boats,– power and sail.

This is an exceptionally friendly group, as informal evening gatherings already have demonstrated. A late afternoon dingy raft was an informal time to ask questions and listen to the candid, and sometimes conflicting, answers. Every sailor has their own perspective, but lots of good information got shared.

As the evening arrived, anchor lights went on and made for a beautiful view.