Posts from the ‘SAILING STUFF’ Category

Wintering in Key West

For those of us from the north, you could hardly call this winter, but that’s what the calendar says. The coldest day was last week when temps dropped into the low 60s – and we got a couple days of rain. Otherwise temps have stayed in the 70s to low 80s……..  Since arriving in mid-December, it has been great fun getting to know the town, and Key West’s unique culture.  Especially so because good friends here have been my tour guides – lots to see and do!

Otherwise known as the Conch Republic, Key West is an island town with a bit of everything for both tourists and residents.  Mobs of pelicans inhabit the town,

And chickens are afforded protection as descendants of early Cuban fighting roosters.

 More ‘wildlife’ is found at the Hemingway House in the form of numerous six-toed cats. The Hemingway House is one of the several historic locations.

Hemingway wrote many of his well-known books while living there, and apparently ‘collected’ cats at the same time. Several generations later, the cats are well cared for and prowl the compound at will.

Arriving at Christmas time provided the opportunity to see all the many spectacular decorations around town and experience some of the festivities.

Good restaurants and live music abound, especially along Duval Street – tourist central. Here’s a small sample of some of the places and events I’ve enjoyed… so far. A wonderful French croissant café; the Garden Hotel jazz and wine tastings

The Jazz Club

 ………McConnell’s Irish pub; the Green Turtle right at the harbor where I park my dingy; Aqua Idol night club with its karaoke nights and Drag Queen shows; Salute’s restaurant for New Year’s eve with a local group of friends, then there was the New Year’s pirate drop……

………….and live stage plays at the Waterfront and Red Barn theaters.  The annual Daschund Walk and small pocket parks add to the diversity and character of the town.

So, what about the sailing? Well, first I’ve been kept very busy with all the activities – and what a great way to experience a new place. Second, it seems the polar vortex that blanketed much of the country with bitter cold, sent strong winds and rain this way. Winds in excess of 30kts have been frequent since I arrived – enough so that I moved Valinor into the marina for a few days to get her off the exposed mooring. One sailboat just north of here got caught in 40+kts and was blown outside the reef. The solo skipper was picked up from the sea in 10-12ft waves by the coast guard. Hopefully it is now settling down to more normal conditions in time for Race Week that begins this coming weekend.

One of the pluses of this part of the world is the many beautiful sunsets……

Key West & friends!

The last 100 miles was a pleasant three days running down Hawk Channel on the east/south side of the Keys. Well protected by the outside reef, and with moderate winds, it was a nice change of pace to have sails up. Arrived in Key West Harbor on Tuesday (12/17).

                                                           Approach to Key West Harbor

Coming into new, unfamiliar territory is always a bit tense. But good friends had made a connection for me with a convenient and inexpensive mooring. One call to the owner returned lat/long and a description that took me there easily. It is re-assuring to know the boat is secure, especially with the frequent, high winds that blow this time of year.

My friends also opened their home as an ‘on-land’ base so I don’t need to make daily dingy trips between boat and land. Those trips are frequently very wet when winds blow above the low teens and other boat traffic creates significant chop.  Add to that, they have included me in an assortment of fun, Key West social activities including Christmas parties, cook out, artist’s mart and upcoming New Year’s dinner. It has been busy!

One notable party was at Casa Antigua, an historic hotel turned into a private residence. The owner has an open house for the community each year with incredible foods and open bar. The decorations were spectacular.

Only down side has been some issues with the dingy outboard. The first created by my forgetting to re-attach the fuel line – rookie mistake that resulted in a very long row to get back to the boat from the city dingy dock. The second appears to have been an air block that was solved quickly and inexpensively by a local engine repair service.

Weather has been warm to hot and breezy, pretty normal for this season. I’m looking forward to getting familiar with the town and its history, as well as several unique aspects/activities that define Key West and make it such an attraction. And yes, I did get the required photo of Mile ‘0’, the southernmost point.

Looking forward to Race week in January and a sail out to the Dry Tortugas… more and pics later.

Reality..

..is finally settling in.
I’m anchored this evening in Long Key Bight on the edge of the ocean at a point further south than I’ve ever had the opportunity to go. In two days I’ll be the rest of the way south – at Key West.
The moon – nearly full – has lit up the water. My view to the east is unobstructed across the stream to the Bahamas – may get there before heading home. The water is calm and lapping at the boat. Only some distant traffic occasionally breaks the quiet.
With luck, and an accurate weather forecast for a change, looks like a sailing day, and maybe two the rest of the way down Hawk Channel.
A special thanks this evening to the woman I love, who gave me the freedom to find this place and the adventure it is part of.

Catching up

How quickly it all passes, and experiences merge into a blur, It takes some concentration and organization to keep it all in sequence. Writing for this blog helps…. so, from the last report at St Mary’s and the stop at Jim King Park that prompted the ‘Solo’ post, I’ve traveled to St Augustine ( on a mooring), Daytona, Titusville (near Cape Canaveral), Melbourne (anchor), Vero Beach Marina (2 nights on a mooring), Rafted with friends near Stuart, anchored at Riviera Beach (met a fellow Catalina 30 solo sailor), stopped at Loggerhead marina just north of Miami (needed a shower J ) and visited with the Lasata crew, anchored at Hurricane Harbor just south on Miami, and sitting now at Anchorage Resort & Yacht Club after a loooong day with high winds..

An aside –I’ve been amazed at the evidence of incredible wealth apparent in the homes along the waterway. Mansion after mansion of 5-10,000 sq ft and larger homes with mega yachts parked in front. One wonders where all that wealth comes from.

Red 44 was passed on Monday, 12/9 – thousand mile mark from Norfolk!

I’ve enjoyed the connections with other cruisers as we pass and re-pass each other along the way – and often stop to help when someone has boat problems. Today was the first of the ‘multiple bridge’ days, and the challenge to maintain a pace between to avoid long delays while waiting for a scheduled opening of the low bridges.

Vero Beach was a rest stop and a chance to re-provision. Friends Sue and Bill from back home are now staying there in a beautiful motor home, but remain connected to the cruising community that is extensive at Vero. So, I got a trip to the grocery store and re-provisioned for the next couple weeks – likely the last such stop before Key West.

The stop at Stuart was the first chance to catch up with cruiser friends Chuck & Cathy, and I got treated to a small feast for dinner and the chance to share stories and their experiences for the places I have still to see.

From Stuart it was a quick run to an anchorage at Boca Raton where I met Moby a fellow Catalina 30 sailor (bet you can guess his last name – Richard , also cruising solo on Allegro. We spent a pleasant evening sharing experiences. This is the first trip south for both of us, and we’re both headed to Key West, so are traveling together for a time.

He’s in the smaller boat….

An interesting run past Miami, but just as glad to see it in the rear view mirror.

The past two days have been sunny but very high north winds blowing 15-25 knots making for uncomfortable motor sailing with following seas.  Seems wind is a sailors best friend and worst enemy. After two days of anchoring difficulties and these winds, I opted for a marina tonight……… shower time and a good night’s sleep!

Just about 100 miles to go to Key West!

Solo time

Tonight I found myself in a solitary anchorage after a long, pleasant run of 48 miles. The day began with the promise of warming, sunny weather – a promise kept. It is also a reminder of the contrasts. Solo sailing has its joy, and offers time for contemplation as well as the meeting of challenges when conditions are less than ideal. Perhaps more important, it misses the opportunity to share the very special times and places one encounters unexpectedly. Tonight was one of those.

As the sun set, the sky glowed with vivid salmon colors against the blue. I’d post a picture, but it wouldn’t begin to convey the spectacular changing view. This evening will be one of those solo times etched forever in the memories of this adventure.

As the sky keeps changing, and the birds continue their evening songs, I’m reminder of all I’d hoped for in making this trip,and look forward to the remembering and other opportunities to share.

… maybe I’ll post a pic or two later……….

Moving along…

After dropping Carl off in Charleston I headed off to Savannah. It was just a couple days travel time with good weather on down to Savannah when Terri – a friend from Key West was to meet me and crew for a week to Jacksonville.

Charleston was a nice marina facility and close to stores for some resupply. Sailing friends on Lasata, Ralph and Stacie were also there.  We both headed out a bit latter in the morningon the 15^th and made about 20 miles to an anchorage in Church Creek (stm 487) where we rafted for the night.

Then on early the next morning to Beaufort.  First encounter with the bootom coming our of the Ashepoo-Coosaw cutoff…. Zigged right instead of left and stopped. Fortunately the power boat behind me took a line and I was free in just a few feet.

It was an uneventful trip to Savannah where I had arranged with the Hinkly Yacht Yard to replace the leaking raw water pump. What terrific folks. They did what they promised, did it on time and with considerable consideration in the form of free dockage for part of the few days there.

Terri joined the boat in Savannah. We made the first 32miles to KilKenny Creek, and a ‘fishing camp’ style marina? A bit rough around the edges, but a well protected spot and friendly folks.

The next day we made about 40 iles to an anchorage in South River (stm 653). This marked another day of high north winds and chilly temps…..weather that was going to hound us all the way to Jacksonville.  Weather drove us into a marina at Jekyll Harbor.

Other than the cold, wet, high wind conditions, we made the trip to St Mary’s in good time.

Each year the town of St Mary’s hosts any cruisers in the area to a Thanksgiving dinner and associated events. Good food and good company! and a lot of folks (2-3 hundred) to feed!

The town has a very long history dating back to the 1700’s.  We had some time to wander and found the cemetary.

We stayed an extra day to enjoy some of the cruisers’ company and make new friends. Also, the next day’s forecast promised light winds and warmer – just one of the misguided forecasts….  Instead we encountered 20-30kt winds and a high temp in the 40s. It was NOT a fun trip across the St Andrew Sound and down to a free dock just outside Jacksonville. With 25kts of wind directly on the dock, we pulled up, stopped the boat the the wind carried us broadside into the dock. There would be no leaving until the wind subsided. This AM it was nearly calm. Three other boats that had been pinned here for two days, left early and I was alone on the dock.

We met an amazing man here named Brown, who Mark Doyle had told us about. He’s as sailor,  retired and has lived in the area for over 30 years. He volunteers his help to passing sailors as a way to give back, or pay forward, however you think about it. He gave Terri a ride to the airport (45 min drive), and took me to stores to pick up some supplies – never asking or expecting any compensation. We donated as our ‘pay forward’, as I hope others do/will to support his good work!

When I got back from errands, another sail boat from Michigan had arrived. After helping them turn the boat around in the fast current, they invited me for dinner. I continue to be amazed at the commuity of sailors and how quickly friendships are formed. It is so far, one of the highlights of the trip.

More soon

In St Mary’s, Georgia for the cruiser’s Thanksgiving and headed tomorrow for Jacksonville area to drop off crew. Will catch up then with the fun run from Charleston to St Augustine.
St Mary’s gathering was great fun…
..

My father…

I thought about my father this evening. I think of him every now and again, but somehow this was not the same. He was a gentle man, and honorable man. He served his life as a clergyman, setting an example that most of us would be hard pressed to emulate. He died young, in his mid-fifties – too young.  Too young to see and know his grandchildren. He would have been proud of each of them. Too young to watch his son grow into an adult. Too young to follow the successes and failures that we all experience. He believed with a strength of conviction that I could not follow, despite all the opportunities he provided to me to accept his view of life. If he was right and I am wrong, I imagine he’s smiling as I write this.

I think we all reach a time and place where we feel a need to remember and honor our parents. We find our own paths, and come to our own conclusions about the nature of life.  My father knew before he passed away that he and I had found different answers. He accepted that, and never sought to call mine wrong. I believe he trusted that we all come to know truth in some way in our own time. I choose to believe that this is our one and only life to live, and that we have one chance to live it in a way that we can be proud at the end that we did our best to live true to our principles. He believed in something more, and trusted in a plan greater than what we can know in this life.

At this point in my adventure traveling south, I’ve paused for a moment to honor my parents. My mother had her own strengths and shared his beliefs, but it is my father that I mostly recall this evening in a quiet spot on a boat alone.  I didn’t know it at the time I packed the boat for this trip, but must have unconsciously thought this time would come. He was a pipe smoker – perhaps his only ‘vice’. I packed his favorite – one of the few things I have of his. I filled it and lit it on the deck tonight and remembered the many time as a child I could smell the fragrance. I choose to think, right or wrong, that he noticed. If he did, then I’m mistaken, or perhaps we are both right, and this mystery of life is greater than we can imagine.

Among many other things, he gave me his heart – in many ways other than the physical that killed him.  While it has been a challenge, it has also been a strength that has so far given me a quarter of a century more than he had. I’ve had time to watch my children grow and the beautiful grandchildren they have produced. It has been a remarkable gift. He missed that.

I offer these thoughts to my family, but mostly to remind other sons to take the time to honor their own parents, and especially fathers for lessons learned – however long it might take to learn them.

I also share this as a gift back to my dad.

Winter came early……

Well, it was a pretty good start to Savannah from Beaufort where I had beautiful warm weather – shorts and T’s… no socks. Caught the tide about right and made a good 30 miles to a lovely protected (mostly) anchorage.

Was there all alone till early evening when a small trawler arrived and dropped anchor. Still it was a quiet and pretty spot, complete with another great sunset.

The plan, based on the latest weather forecast was to leave in time to ride the tide and cross the busy Savannah River at slack water. Not all plans evolve as expected.

Winds began to pick up overnight causing the anchor chain to drag around on the bottom, and vibrate all through the hull – restless sleep. Got off all right in the morning (7am) and caught the tidal current. I also caught a cold, grey sky and 15 to 30kts of biting wind. It was a somewhat more exciting ride to Savannah, but done in really good time with 1-2kts of favorable current and wind that was mostly from the stern. (Really busy – no pix)

The landing at the dock at Hinckley Marina & Yacht Yard in blustery conditions with winds opposing the tide was less than perfect, but none of the 6 helpers on shore, nor the boat, sustained any damage – just a small dent in my boat handling pride.

The water pump will be here today – per UPS – and should get installed tomorrow. New crew comes Friday and we’ll be off again Saturday morning – hoping the cold forecast turns out to be as wrong as the one for today………

Finding friends

With crew off the boat in Charleston, I am enjoying the quiet of solo sailing. Also, have connected with other friends on Lasata, a 34ft Tartan. Ralph and Stacie made the trip south last year, but mostly off-shore. It’s fun to share the time and share our sailing experiences.

We left Charleston and made the run part way to Beaufort, SC in increasingly nice weather. The first night we found a pleasant anchorage in Church Creek, about half way to Beaufort. It was an uneventful motor/sail treated by frequent porpoise company, and watched a young deer swim the width of the Waterway – about ¼ mile at that point. He/she climbed out, shook off the water and wandered into the tall marsh grasses. Bald Eagles were a common sight, along with other assorted wildlife.

We made a very early start at dawn from our anchorage, breaking up our raft just as the sun was coming up.

It was about a 48 mile trip, and had some adverse current much of the way. We also ran though several of the Waterway trouble spots where shoaling has made for challenging shallows. Every sailor, if they admit the truth, has run aground. Valinor draws 4 feet when loaded with cruising gear and supplies. At one especially tricky spot, well known for its shoaling, I suddenly found the ground coming up fast – made the wrong choice, turned into the shallows and found 3 feet of water – stopped in the mud.

Fortunately I was being followed by a family in a small power boat who stopped, took a line and pulled me about 6 feet off the shoal. Just another example of the courtesy among boaters.

The rest of the trip was a pleasant motor/sail to Beaufort, SC. About mid-afternoon we pulled into the Lady’s Island Marina where I discovered that the dock master previously the managed the DC marina where my former boss, DOI Secretary Kempthorne, keeps his live-aboard boat – indeed it is a small world.

Also at the marina are friends, Mark & Diana Doyle – authors of the best Waterway guides, and a source of great AICW info.

Tomorrow will be a start timed to catch the bridge opening and make a good start to Savannah. I’ll be there a couple days to get a water pump repaired and pick up another friend to crew for a week down to the GA/FL line. If all goes well, we’ll join other cruisers at St Mary’s, GA for a Thanksgiving dinner.